You can follow my road trip by starting here, and then going here.

Time is strange when you’re travelling. The usual rhythm of the days is interrupted, there’s more coming and going, planning and spontaneous detours, a new bed every few nights, and discovery around every corner.

The euphoria of the newness of it all sometimes gives way to a confusing flatness, to be replaced by more highs, until you start to understand this new rhythm as simply being a different part of the ocean with waves that behave differently.

Gorse and sea

Yellow gorse and blue sea on the path to Gorran Haven

In the last episode of Tara’s Cornwall Adventure, I arrived in Mevagissey on the south coast, and spent my first day there visiting the Lost Gardens of Heligan and pootling about in the village. The next day I decided to walk to Gorran Haven, an even tinier village about two and half miles’ walk along the coast path.

sketchbook at Gorran Haven

Arting in Gorran Haven

I kept crossing paths with the postman in his van, and he gave me directions in his lovely Cornish accent, which I promptly forgot and almost ended up going the wrong way until he honked the horn and pointed. Not embarrassing at all.

south coast path between Mevagissey and Gorran Haven

The walk to Gorran Haven

It was a very photogenic, if windy, day. The walk took me through fields of gambolling lambs, past steep rocky drops into tiny coves, and the most vivid greens and blues everywhere I looked. Once I arrived in Gorran Haven, I wandered around the narrow streets, enjoying the dollhouse cottages and miniature church until I finally settled on a bench overlooking the harbour to do a little sketching. A group of rowers took a long boat out that made me think of Vikings.

The next morning it was time to move on. My destination was Gunwalloe, a hamlet on the Lizard peninsula, but first I stopped off in Fowey, home of Daphne du Maurier and other writers, to see the boats.


Clockwise from top left: Leonard, views across the estuary to Polruan, tiny streets and a lovely church, Ready Money Cove

It was a bit of a thunderous looking day, and I didn’t feel that emotional connection to the town, but it has some beautiful views across the estuary to Polruan. And let’s not forget Dawn French’s enormous mansion {not pictured as I only found out which one it was later}, and Leonard, the largest lobster ever caught {or in the Guinness Book of Records at any rate}, at 1.26 metres. {!} That’s almost my height.

Polruan from Fowey

Polruan through a hole in Fowey

And then I arrived in Gunwalloe, at the cottage to end all cottages. The owner works for Laura Ashley, and she has a gift for decorating. Every corner was thoughtfully put together from vintage pieces and soft colours, and it felt like home immediately. There was even a delicious cream tea on the table when I arrived, which I ate in the sunny garden.


The most beautiful cottage in the world #fact

There was a beach about three minutes’ walk from the cottage, and my heart sang when I stepped onto it. A grand sweep of sand curving around towards Porthleven, backed by green topped cliffs and just a couple of white houses, and almost no people. It’s the kind of beach you dream of. {Unless you’re the kind of person who dreams of volcanic beaches or those packed with holiday makers.}

Beach between Gunwalloe and Porthleven

Beach heaven

A short walk along the coast path in the other direction was Church Cove, a smaller, rockier beach flanked by a golf course {which rather undid the impression of remoteness} and a small church right on the beach.

Church Cove, Gunwalloe

Church Cove, Gunwalloe


Views towards Porthleven on the coast path

Views towards Porthleven. The yellow gorse/blue sea combo never gets old.


rocky cove

One of Cornwall’s gazillion rocky coves – this one is inspiring me for an abstract landscape painting when I get home

And now I must go to bed before I pass out. See you for the next exciting instalment. 😉 And if you want to follow along on Instagram I’m sharing some photos there too.